Dispatches from the Prairies
It was here at Fort Kearney that all the disparate trails from the east used by the explorers, missionaries, mountain men, settlers, prospectors, and pony express riders came together to form the broad passage following the Platte River into the mountains of Wyoming. Fort Kearney itself vanished right after it was abandoned due to the inauguration of the national railroad in 1869. I say vanished but really since there were no trees here then, the locals relocated all the wood minutes after the last soldier faded over the horizon. The fort that is here now is merely a replica.
I spent last night at the Fort Kearney Historical Park campground which I had pretty much to myself. Lonely in a late fall kind of way. Camping was $12 (no power) and $1 for 5 minutes of hot water in the showers. I set up beside a rain shelter overlooking a pretty little lake which was a good thing because it poured all night and in the morning I dragged all my stuff to the shelter where I sat watching the rain fall in the lake while drinking tea. The life of an international explorer. Finally, bored senseless, I put on my rain gear and headed for town.
I am deep in the prairies now. Constantly surrounded by enormous fields of corn stretching away in all directions as far as the horizon. The colours are gold and green with dots of silver for silos and grey lines for roads. Occasionally I pass a ethanol refinery where they turn food into gas. The land is great rolling waves of hills and I am seldom out of high range in my gears although the wind is mostly in my face. There are few cars and mostly wide paved shoulders to travel and I have been making good time.
Physically, my butt still aches at the end of the day but the latest of my pains is my palms which go numb after awhile. I have been wrapping socks around my gloves as cushions. I look more and more like the gypsy your mother warned you against.
Today I arrived in Kearney (pop. 27,000). If you are ever in Kearney and want to meet some nice people, go to Kearney Cycling and Fitness. Third generation Justin fixed my bike with Dad overseeing and telling me about memories of his favorite park in Saskatchewan (Dad still comes in to work part days). I really like Americans. Pity about their foreign policies. I am laying up here tonight in a motel to give my body time to recuperate. I'm going to lounge and dry my stuff and buy grub for the next few days also.
I spent last night at the Fort Kearney Historical Park campground which I had pretty much to myself. Lonely in a late fall kind of way. Camping was $12 (no power) and $1 for 5 minutes of hot water in the showers. I set up beside a rain shelter overlooking a pretty little lake which was a good thing because it poured all night and in the morning I dragged all my stuff to the shelter where I sat watching the rain fall in the lake while drinking tea. The life of an international explorer. Finally, bored senseless, I put on my rain gear and headed for town.
I am deep in the prairies now. Constantly surrounded by enormous fields of corn stretching away in all directions as far as the horizon. The colours are gold and green with dots of silver for silos and grey lines for roads. Occasionally I pass a ethanol refinery where they turn food into gas. The land is great rolling waves of hills and I am seldom out of high range in my gears although the wind is mostly in my face. There are few cars and mostly wide paved shoulders to travel and I have been making good time.
Physically, my butt still aches at the end of the day but the latest of my pains is my palms which go numb after awhile. I have been wrapping socks around my gloves as cushions. I look more and more like the gypsy your mother warned you against.
Today I arrived in Kearney (pop. 27,000). If you are ever in Kearney and want to meet some nice people, go to Kearney Cycling and Fitness. Third generation Justin fixed my bike with Dad overseeing and telling me about memories of his favorite park in Saskatchewan (Dad still comes in to work part days). I really like Americans. Pity about their foreign policies. I am laying up here tonight in a motel to give my body time to recuperate. I'm going to lounge and dry my stuff and buy grub for the next few days also.
Thinking of you all
ps thanks to all for the comments - I look forward to reading them so much
ps Neil - You were right about my losing a week - I have 13 days left, starting tomorrow, before we meet. Maybe Casper would be a better rendezvous than Wheatland since the difference in distance would eat up a couple of days for me - does your bus continue on to there? As a plus, Casper is the start of the scenic road. Let me know if that option is okay with you?
ps Colleen - did you win next year's golf membership?
ps Glad to hear from you, Irene and Patrick.
ps Glad to get news from you, John. Colleen told me of your email and let's talk when I get to Vancouver.
Laurence
Are you sure you wouldn't rather just take a few days break in Wheatland? - hehe. As far as I know the bus carries on to Casper. I'll change ny ticket when I get to Denver. Where do you want to meet. The bus'll get in pretty late, around 1:30am. Also have you bought a return ticket yet? I was looking today for a flight from Sacramento to Vancouver on Sunday the 20th or Monday the 21st. What are your plans re: this?
ReplyDeleteRest up! Did the motel have a pool?
ReplyDeleteFollowing you avidly,
Andrew and Denise
Hi Dad,
ReplyDeleteSounds like you're in the thick of it now. Too bad about the rain... Things here are great. X is starting to gear up for school and J starts her first dance class in two weeks. Baby L is keeping it real! Good luck tomorrow.
Scott
laurence,
ReplyDeletephew....so glad to hear you are resting and pacing yourself....this is very important with such a long journey ahead of you...way to go....
i'm glad to hear you are making good time and that you actually have more breathing space than you thought before you meet up with Neil....nothing like being ahead of yourself by a week to end up being right on time....go figure....
we miss you alot and find ourselves wondering how you are holding up....thank goodness for this blogging thing you have going....
we wish you air in your tires and tight spokes and a flat road for the next bit....remember you can only take one day at a time...
with love
laura, glenn anna and sophie
xxxxxoooooooooo
Your trip is a real historical adventure. Tracing part of US history is very exciting.
ReplyDeleteHowever always look out for yourself and stay safe
Regards
Patrick
Hi Laurence. This trip sounds like a blast. Be sure to check out The Great Platte River Road Archway Monument, spanning Interstate 80, 5 km's east of town. It is a museum paying tribute to the area's pioneer history. It was featured in the movie About Schmidt.
ReplyDeleteStay safe,
Dave
Biking home yesterday, I swallowed a bug and thought of you. Promised myself I'd start biking with my mouth closed. Five minutes later, nearly swallowed another. They're dry little things, eh?
ReplyDeleteYours in vegetarian solidarity, j
Hello from the Canadian prairies. (sort of) We are enjoying your blogging. Best of luck. You are going to come back one skinny dude.
ReplyDeleteLaurence :
ReplyDeleteThanks for setting up this great window into your adventure. I have been following your trek eagerly and looking fwd to each `dispatch from the front`.
Your talent as a raconteur is delightful. Sue and I plan to do a similar journey but it will no doubt be by car and `roughing it` at the Hampton Inn. Keep on cycling and enjoying life!!
Alain et Suzanne